NOW-TRENDS
NOW: ACNE STUDIOS OUTERWEAR FW16

NOW: ACNE STUDIOS OUTERWEAR FW16

We love Acne Studios for this quirky and unconventional way of playing with traditional codes and flirt with concepts while remaining utterly wearable. The most recent outerwear collections were all very clean and chic but were missing this “je ne sais quoi”. So it’s with a certain excitement that I’m presenting this new fall winter. First, the proportions, all exaggerated, disproportionate,...
NOW: A COLD WALL

NOW: A COLD WALL

Streetwear has become the synthesis of art and fashion, creating a new genre, a support for creative directors, good or bad, engaged or not, master of communications or/and real thinkers. Streetwear is graphic design, photography, fonts, textures, music, performances, installations. All are part of the same vision, the same desire to establish a dialogue, to...
NOW: RABBITHOLE

NOW: RABBITHOLE

Rabbithole is one of these brands with almost no digital imprint. London-based and founded in 2010, Rabbithole went through different iterations before looking that cool. You might find here and there a few images from previous collections but nothing really noticeable until, I believe, this new collection. We always praised NYC as the Mecca of streetwear. It’s...
NOW: SUNNEI

NOW: SUNNEI

It’s always interesting to observe how brands evolve and what they actually are about. From their first collection for SS15 to their most recent (SS17), Sunnei’s evolution is truly mesmerizing. Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the two designers, seem to have aggregated (or learned) what’s a cool brand is about nowadays. From a revisited soft tailoring slightly influenced by...
NOW: NYFWM SS17

NOW: NYFWM SS17

Private Policy Inspired by the story of slaves kept prisoners on fishing boats for years in the Southeast Asia, Private Policy, created by two Parson’s alumni, designed a collection where clothes are seen as political statement. Second Layer After a first collection mostly influenced by their neighborhood (Los Angeles, skaters, streetwear, oversized fits), the duo behind...
NOW: NYFWM SS17

NOW: NYFWM SS17

NYFWM just ended a month-long of shows sprawled between London, Florence, Milan and Paris. While the utility of this additional fashion week remains to be redefined, it offered to a few designers an opportunity to showcase interesting ideas. Linder Image Patty Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe designing a collection back in the 70’s and you will understand what Linder...
NOW: FABRIC-BRAND & CO

NOW: FABRIC-BRAND & CO

Since its creation in the mid 19th century, denim has remained a constant source of inspiration and reinvention. It’s interesting to note that most of the new players are neither American nor part of the traditional denim history, leaving to the original actors (Levi’s and Co…) not that much room to remain relevant. One of these newcomers...
NOW: WOOD WOOD SS16

NOW: WOOD WOOD SS16

Wood Wood SS16 collection goes one step further from its streetwear origins to embrace a more creative direction. This new season switched from the classic black & white uniform to a rich color palette of burgundy, warm beige, indigo and deep navy blue. The silhouette, while remaining quite linear and sometimes boxy, is slightly more complex, introducing more separates and multiple...
NOW: CHAPTER SS16

NOW: CHAPTER SS16

Dubbed Displacement, the new Chapter collection explores the convolutions between past and present, old and new, constraints and freedom, light and shadows, open spaces and darker minds. The silhouette intertwines oversized pieces with some more tailored, the color spectrum was slightly expanded including warmer and neutral tones. The lines have evolved, embracing a linear and functional vocabulary. The romanticism of the first collection,...
NOW: R.SWIADER SS16

NOW: R.SWIADER SS16

I only discovered R.SWIADER a few weeks ago even though the brand has been around since almost two years. After studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC, Rafal Swiader worked as a womenswear designer and eventually moved to Los Angeles where he launched his eponymous brand in 2014. What first stroked me was this effortless silhouette, all...
NOW: ONIA SPRING 16

NOW: ONIA SPRING 16

It’s a bit early in the season but the weather has been so nice here in NYC that summer is becoming day after day a tangible reality. I really like Onia. They make sophisticated prints, made in-house or in collaboration with Liberty London, quite often bold but surprisingly not overwhelming. The fabrics used have also very nice...
NOW: J.W.ANDERSON | IAN DAVID BAKER

NOW: J.W.ANDERSON | IAN DAVID BAKER

J.W. Anderson created his very own space in the fashion world, questioning gender, infusing romanticism and poetry but mostly importantly intertwining art and fashion in an open dialogue. One of his latest ventures includes a new Workshop series featuring visual artists. After a first collaboration last January with Luis Venegas, photographer and illustrator Ian David Baker was...
NOW: PATRIK ERVELL SS16

NOW: PATRIK ERVELL SS16

February 3rd. The second NYFWM is about to end but I’m still on the lookout for something more disruptive. Vogue Collections has just released Patrik’s new Fall Winter 16/17 lookbook so I decide to skip a few shows to visit his studio. As I was meticulously looking at each piece, Patrik introduced himself. There is always something nerve-racking about meeting...
NOW: TOMORROWLAND SS16

NOW: TOMORROWLAND SS16

Full disclosure: I’m a big fan of Tomorrowland. I love everything about it, whether it’s the silhouettes, the designs, the fabrics and obviously the philosophy behind the brand. The collections offer an effortless take on menswear with a vibrant color palette, extremely well fitted pieces and luxurious materials. The color story of this season is influenced by...
NOW: BARTON PERREIRA - HANDMADE IN JAPAN

NOW: BARTON PERREIRA – HANDMADE IN JAPAN

The Barton Perreira team had the excellent idea to document their fabrication process in Japanese factory where all their frames are handmade. Only a few brands kept their production there so it’s really interesting to discover all the steps required to achieve such quality and what it entails. In addition to this video, a few...
NOW: ARMOIRE D'HOMME SS16

NOW: ARMOIRE D’HOMME SS16

There is something reassuring about Armoire d’Homme. Its simplicity, and somehow honesty, proves that a new brand can emerge without all the fuss and eccentricity quite often required to be noticed. Scandinavian brands got us used to their minimalist and understated visions, quite often influenced by workwear and streetwear, but rarely with a classic silhouette. Armoire...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - NEW COLORS

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – NEW COLORS

Each season has a its new color palette. Green had a major comeback the last season with multiple variations (forest green, emerald, pistachio,…). This time, two new ones emerged from the runway, lavender blue and ochre. While they are not the most outrageous ones, they definitely have something refreshing and quite unexpected if you consider the different...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - ELONGATED

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – ELONGATED

According to trend forecasters, skinny silhouettes are over. Men don’t want to wear tight pants like they have been doing the last 4 years. It seems that designers also got the memo and figured out some tricks to get us still look skinnier while not being too literal. One of them has been stretching the silhouette with elongated...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - DISRUPTIVE

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – DISRUPTIVE

Fashion loves order. It’s the essence of its business. Chaos just don’t sell and even in their more desperate attempts, designers are always struggling to be completely disruptive. On the other hand, fashion shows always offer an opportunity to translate visually the original intention. Some designers are more gifted than others, offering a more comprehensive...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - QUEER

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – QUEER

Defining a season can be some kind of pick and choose contest where you try to agglomerate looks and pray to get new trends. But Spring Summer 16 offers an exceptional amount of major trends, almost all divided into niches. Forget the recent seasons, all compulsively obsessed with streetwear and all sorts of Goths, and get ready to celebrate a new...
NOW: BALENCIAGA FW15

NOW: BALENCIAGA FW15

It surely comes off  now as an old news, especially with Alexander Wang out but I always loved his work for the Paris-based house. While the press has quite often questioned his understanding of the Balenciaga’s history, I found Wang’s vision for the men’s collections successful, intrinsically intertwining the slick DNA of the founder with his own modern...