NOW-TRENDS
NOW: FABRIC-BRAND & CO

NOW: FABRIC-BRAND & CO

Since its creation in the mid 19th century, denim has remained a constant source of inspiration and reinvention. It’s interesting to note that most of the new players are neither American nor part of the traditional denim history, leaving to the original actors (Levi’s and Co…) not that much room to remain relevant. One of these newcomers...
NOW: WOOD WOOD SS16

NOW: WOOD WOOD SS16

Wood Wood SS16 collection goes one step further from its streetwear origins to embrace a more creative direction. This new season switched from the classic black & white uniform to a rich color palette of burgundy, warm beige, indigo and deep navy blue. The silhouette, while remaining quite linear and sometimes boxy, is slightly more complex, introducing more separates and multiple...
NOW: CHAPTER SS16

NOW: CHAPTER SS16

Dubbed Displacement, the new Chapter collection explores the convolutions between past and present, old and new, constraints and freedom, light and shadows, open spaces and darker minds. The silhouette intertwines oversized pieces with some more tailored, the color spectrum was slightly expanded including warmer and neutral tones. The lines have evolved, embracing a linear and functional vocabulary. The romanticism of the first collection,...
NOW: R.SWIADER SS16

NOW: R.SWIADER SS16

I only discovered R.SWIADER a few weeks ago even though the brand has been around since almost two years. After studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC, Rafal Swiader worked as a womenswear designer and eventually moved to Los Angeles where he launched his eponymous brand in 2014. What first stroked me was this effortless silhouette, all...
NOW: ONIA SPRING 16

NOW: ONIA SPRING 16

It’s a bit early in the season but the weather has been so nice here in NYC that summer is becoming day after day a tangible reality. I really like Onia. They make sophisticated prints, made in-house or in collaboration with Liberty London, quite often bold but surprisingly not overwhelming. The fabrics used have also very nice...
NOW: J.W.ANDERSON | IAN DAVID BAKER

NOW: J.W.ANDERSON | IAN DAVID BAKER

J.W. Anderson created his very own space in the fashion world, questioning gender, infusing romanticism and poetry but mostly importantly intertwining art and fashion in an open dialogue. One of his latest ventures includes a new Workshop series featuring visual artists. After a first collaboration last January with Luis Venegas, photographer and illustrator Ian David Baker was...
NOW: PATRIK ERVELL SS16

NOW: PATRIK ERVELL SS16

February 3rd. The second NYFWM is about to end but I’m still on the lookout for something more disruptive. Vogue Collections has just released Patrik’s new Fall Winter 16/17 lookbook so I decide to skip a few shows to visit his studio. As I was meticulously looking at each piece, Patrik introduced himself. There is always something nerve-racking about meeting...
NOW: TOMORROWLAND SS16

NOW: TOMORROWLAND SS16

Full disclosure: I’m a big fan of Tomorrowland. I love everything about it, whether it’s the silhouettes, the designs, the fabrics and obviously the philosophy behind the brand. The collections offer an effortless take on menswear with a vibrant color palette, extremely well fitted pieces and luxurious materials. The color story of this season is influenced by...
NOW: BARTON PERREIRA - HANDMADE IN JAPAN

NOW: BARTON PERREIRA – HANDMADE IN JAPAN

The Barton Perreira team had the excellent idea to document their fabrication process in Japanese factory where all their frames are handmade. Only a few brands kept their production there so it’s really interesting to discover all the steps required to achieve such quality and what it entails. In addition to this video, a few...
NOW: ARMOIRE D'HOMME SS16

NOW: ARMOIRE D’HOMME SS16

There is something reassuring about Armoire d’Homme. Its simplicity, and somehow honesty, proves that a new brand can emerge without all the fuss and eccentricity quite often required to be noticed. Scandinavian brands got us used to their minimalist and understated visions, quite often influenced by workwear and streetwear, but rarely with a classic silhouette. Armoire...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - NEW COLORS

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – NEW COLORS

Each season has a its new color palette. Green had a major comeback the last season with multiple variations (forest green, emerald, pistachio,…). This time, two new ones emerged from the runway, lavender blue and ochre. While they are not the most outrageous ones, they definitely have something refreshing and quite unexpected if you consider the different...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - ELONGATED

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – ELONGATED

According to trend forecasters, skinny silhouettes are over. Men don’t want to wear tight pants like they have been doing the last 4 years. It seems that designers also got the memo and figured out some tricks to get us still look skinnier while not being too literal. One of them has been stretching the silhouette with elongated...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - DISRUPTIVE

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – DISRUPTIVE

Fashion loves order. It’s the essence of its business. Chaos just don’t sell and even in their more desperate attempts, designers are always struggling to be completely disruptive. On the other hand, fashion shows always offer an opportunity to translate visually the original intention. Some designers are more gifted than others, offering a more comprehensive...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - QUEER

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – QUEER

Defining a season can be some kind of pick and choose contest where you try to agglomerate looks and pray to get new trends. But Spring Summer 16 offers an exceptional amount of major trends, almost all divided into niches. Forget the recent seasons, all compulsively obsessed with streetwear and all sorts of Goths, and get ready to celebrate a new...
NOW: BALENCIAGA FW15

NOW: BALENCIAGA FW15

It surely comes off  now as an old news, especially with Alexander Wang out but I always loved his work for the Paris-based house. While the press has quite often questioned his understanding of the Balenciaga’s history, I found Wang’s vision for the men’s collections successful, intrinsically intertwining the slick DNA of the founder with his own modern...
NOW: ACNE STUDIOS FW15

NOW: ACNE STUDIOS FW15

People watching in the subway is truly unique. It’s slightly awkward due to the forced promiscuity but quite enjoyable for the exact same reason. My morning commute is usually a pain until this guy walked in. He had some earrings on, eye shadow, faded purple lipstick and matching nail polish and faded blue hair. Mesmerized by this combination, I took...
PREVIEW: TY-LR SS16

PREVIEW: TY-LR SS16

I usually don’t feature collections so far in advance but I recently discovered TY-LR during the recent press previews. Created in 2015 and based in Australia, this first collection solves a common problem that we frequently encounter: find a sharp and versatile contemporary wardrobe. Developed between Europe and Australia, TY-LR’s fortes are definitely the fabric and construction, both inspired...
NOW: MONCLER GAMME A FW15

NOW: MONCLER GAMME A FW15

Moncler is truly a unique brand in the fashion industry for having first built an entire empire based its outerwear before merging synergies with guest designers like Thom Browne, Giambattista Valli and now Parisian designer AMI’s Alexandre Mattiussi for Moncler Gamme A. Renowned for his effortless silhouettes, Mattiussi designed a contemporary and fresh capsule collection while staying true to Moncler. The...
NOW: CHAPTER FW15

NOW: CHAPTER FW15

Chapter time travels this season exploring two unparalleled worlds, the first days of the space odyssey and the cyberpunk movement in the 1980s. The collection takes cues from when uncertain times were predominant but also the promises of a different future and the discovery of a new humankind nourished new hopes. As a result, this season is aesthetically more challenging mixing monastic wool coats with...
NOW: OFFICINE GENERALE FW15

NOW: OFFICINE GENERALE FW15

Doubt is almost a second nature for us French. Writer Andre Gide actually wrote: “Believe those who seek the truth, doubt those who find it; doubt all, but do not doubt yourself”*. While it might be symptomatic of any creative process, it describes quite well what Officine Generale’s founder Pierre Maheo went through when designing his...
NOW: OC FW15 BY SPIKE JONZE

NOW: OC FW15 BY SPIKE JONZE

Spike Jones, before becoming an acclaimed director, was one of the most prolific 90’s photographers and music video directors collaborating with the Beastie Boys, Bjork, REM and Sonic Youth. Like most photographers, he needed a friend, here Humberto Leon, to resurrect some of these magical moments. After days in Los Angeles digging into Jones’s archives, Leon came up...