NOW-TRENDS
NOW: SS16 – PREVIEW 2

NOW: SS16 – PREVIEW 2

Second and last part of my short preview with four designers all radically different and from different cities. First, the NYC based Patrik Ervell with for this season introduce a quite unusual oversized silhouette. Then the CFDA nominee Gypsy Sport still exploring his genderless theme with this time a quite powerful contrast between an urban...
NOW: SS16 - PREVIEW 1

NOW: SS16 – PREVIEW 1

Haud Studio, Opening Ceremony, Linder, Tourne de Transmission, four different brands but one recurrent theme, youth. Symbol of rebellion, innocent and independence, youth crystallizes these uncanny feelings and desires in their purest shapes. First, Paris based brand Haud Studio. Designed as a gender neutral line, the collection plays with volumes and lengths exploring their own limitations. For this new...
COLLECTIONS SS16: PFW DAY 4

COLLECTIONS SS16: PFW DAY 4

Kenzo Dries Van Noten Thom Browne Hood By Air
COLLECTIONS SS16: PFW DAY 3

COLLECTIONS SS16: PFW DAY 3

Sacai Ann Demeulemeester Louis Vuitton Maison Margiela Wooyoungmi Photo credits: Style.com
INTERVIEW: TITLE OF WORK

INTERVIEW: TITLE OF WORK

Art and Fashion are intrinsically intertwined. McQueen, Margiela, Rey Kawakubo, Rick Owens, Raf Simons and Craig Green are the first designers to come to mind. The accessory world, on the other hand, has surprisingly little to offer, focusing more on lucrative strategies. Rare are the talents rethinking the medium and bringing a more intellectual approach....
COLLECTIONS SS16: PFW DAY 2

COLLECTIONS SS16: PFW DAY 2

Rick Owens Gosha Rubchinskiy 3.1 Phillip Lim Issey Miyake
COLLECTIONS SS16: PFW DAY 1

COLLECTIONS SS16: PFW DAY 1

Raf Simons Lemaire Walter Van Beirendonck
COLLECTIONS SS16: MFW DAY 3

COLLECTIONS SS16: MFW DAY 3

Etro Antonio Marras Canali Marcelo Burlon County of Milan MSGM Photo credit: Style.com
COLLECTIONS SS16: MFW DAY 3

COLLECTIONS SS16: MFW DAY 3

Gucci Brioni Damir Doma Photo credit: Style.com
COLLECTIONS SS16: MFW DAY 2

COLLECTIONS SS16: MFW DAY 2

Salvatore Ferragamo Calvin Klein Collection Missoni Prada Photo credits: Style.com
COLLECTIONS SS16: MFW DAY 1

COLLECTIONS SS16: MFW DAY 1

The men’s collections are back after a break for Pitti Uomo. Milan’s collections, thanks to the exceptional tailors and Italian mills, have renowned for their sharp silhouettes and wonderful fabrics choices. But with London getting a serious momentum, things have changed and designers have clearly felt the pressure to offer more youthful collections. Let see...
COLLECTIONS SS16: LCM DAY 4

COLLECTIONS SS16: LCM DAY 4

E. Tautz Margaret Howell Burberry Photo credits: Style.com
COLLECTIONS SS16: LCM DAY 3

COLLECTIONS SS16: LCM DAY 3

James Long Matthew Miller KTZ Photo credits: Style.com
COLLECTIONS SS16: LCM DAY 2

COLLECTIONS SS16: LCM DAY 2

Astrid Andersen Lou Dalton Christopher Shannon Photo credits: Style.com
COLLECTIONS SS16: LCM DAY 1

COLLECTIONS SS16: LCM DAY 1

London Collection: Men just started with some major designers, including Nashir Mazhar, Craig Green and a newcomer Edward Crutchley. Here is a small edit showing the essence of each collection. Nasir Mazhar Edward Crutchley Craig Green Photo credits: Style.com and Edward Crutchley
NOW: JIL SANDER SS15

NOW: JIL SANDER SS15

Since its creation in 1973, Jil Sander (the brand) had quite of a tumultuous journey. Jil (the woman) was, along with a group of young Japanese designers (Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake…) one of the rare brave souls contesting the glorious 80s. The brand took off commercially right before the 90s, helped by...
NOW: NICOMEDE TALAVERA SS15

NOW: NICOMEDE TALAVERA SS15

After studying on a BA Menswear degree, Nicomede worked at 3.1 Philip Lim and Lanvin for a few months before returning the CSM to achieve a Master in fashion. Most students graduating from Central Saint Martins tend to obsess with abstraction and volumes. John Galliano, Alexander McQueen or Hussein Chalayan, just to name a few, are perfect examples of...
NOW: HUNTER GATHER SS15

NOW: HUNTER GATHER SS15

I lately become obsessed with understated pieces, not that I’m experiencing a certain fatigue but after seeing so many collections conceptualizing too hard, I needed simplicity. It also comes down to a really basic question: “how to be cool without looking like a fool?”. Co-founded by stylist David Bradshaw (ex-Arena Magazine) and designer Chris Bailey (for creative director at Jigsaw Menswear)...
NOW: JOSEPH SS15

NOW: JOSEPH SS15

Leather up! According to Mark Thomas (Joseph’s designer since two seasons) summer is officially time to wear leather pants. While it might seem like an anomaly, it actually translates well what this collection’s narrative is about, a growing man. After a darker fall – winter collection, this season explores a different man, more confident, playful, sharp but relaxed, and...
NOW: STUDIOPRETZEL SS15

NOW: STUDIOPRETZEL SS15

Looking at the new Emiliano Laszlo’s StudioPretzel Spring Summer, I can’t help but quote this Simon & Garfunkel’s song: “Time it was And what a time it was, it was A time of innocence A time of confidences”. Remembering the time of innocence, this defining moment before adulthood, these moments with your friends spent in the...
SS15: WARRIORS

SS15: WARRIORS

Hypersexualized men are common currency on the runway. Tom Ford, Versace, Calvin Klein, just to name a few, have used and abused of them until they slowly vanished with the new millennium. As menswear was getting slowly but surely gaining momentum during the last decade, a new dandy, sophisticated, savvy, global, emerged. Dries Van Noten is certainly...