NOW-TRENDS
NOW: NICOMEDE TALAVERA SS15

NOW: NICOMEDE TALAVERA SS15

After studying on a BA Menswear degree, Nicomede worked at 3.1 Philip Lim and Lanvin for a few months before returning the CSM to achieve a Master in fashion. Most students graduating from Central Saint Martins tend to obsess with abstraction and volumes. John Galliano, Alexander McQueen or Hussein Chalayan, just to name a few, are perfect examples of...
NOW: HUNTER GATHER SS15

NOW: HUNTER GATHER SS15

I lately become obsessed with understated pieces, not that I’m experiencing a certain fatigue but after seeing so many collections conceptualizing too hard, I needed simplicity. It also comes down to a really basic question: “how to be cool without looking like a fool?”. Co-founded by stylist David Bradshaw (ex-Arena Magazine) and designer Chris Bailey (for creative director at Jigsaw Menswear)...
NOW: JOSEPH SS15

NOW: JOSEPH SS15

Leather up! According to Mark Thomas (Joseph’s designer since two seasons) summer is officially time to wear leather pants. While it might seem like an anomaly, it actually translates well what this collection’s narrative is about, a growing man. After a darker fall – winter collection, this season explores a different man, more confident, playful, sharp but relaxed, and...
NOW: STUDIOPRETZEL SS15

NOW: STUDIOPRETZEL SS15

Looking at the new Emiliano Laszlo’s StudioPretzel Spring Summer, I can’t help but quote this Simon & Garfunkel’s song: “Time it was And what a time it was, it was A time of innocence A time of confidences”. Remembering the time of innocence, this defining moment before adulthood, these moments with your friends spent in the...
SS15: WARRIORS

SS15: WARRIORS

Hypersexualized men are common currency on the runway. Tom Ford, Versace, Calvin Klein, just to name a few, have used and abused of them until they slowly vanished with the new millennium. As menswear was getting slowly but surely gaining momentum during the last decade, a new dandy, sophisticated, savvy, global, emerged. Dries Van Noten is certainly...
NOW: JUUN J SS15

NOW: JUUN J SS15

Do you remember Juun J’s Spring Summer collection packed with these gorgeous but skinny shorts… Well this time is over. Forget about the sexualized warriors, it’s now all about monks wearing oversized tees, shirts, kimono pants or robes. The silhouettes, largely influenced by everything sportswear, are longer, drapey, loose, masking or stretching bodies, reminiscences of old Yojhi Yamamoto from...
NOW: NA DI STUDIO SS15

NOW: NA DI STUDIO SS15

Na di is a perfect illustration that talent, outstanding education and a good official support system can make the difference and reveal young designers. After studying at Central Martin School and London College of Fashion where she got a master degree, Na Di was invited to showcase her graduate collection at the Royal Victoria House during the London...
NOW: CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION SS15

NOW: CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION SS15

Some runway shows are made for your eyes and to offer this ultimate fantasy that we will be all one day 6 feet tall and muscular. This dream comes back everything season at multiple occurrences, one of them being Calvin Klein Collection show in Milan. Italo Zucchelli, CKC’s designer, has this rare talent to perpetuate Calvin Klein’s...
NOW: SIKI IM SS15

NOW: SIKI IM SS15

So New York is finally getting its own Men’s Fashion Week with a first edition coming this July (13-16). While the timing (two weeks after Paris Men’s Fashion Week ends) and the first participants are mostly commercial, I couldn’t be happier to see designer like Siki Im taking part of it. Siki’s aesthetic is quite unique in the American landscape. Unlike...
NOW: ETUDES STUDIO SS15

NOW: ETUDES STUDIO SS15

NOW: JIRAIYA AT OPENING CEREMONY

NOW: JIRAIYA AT OPENING CEREMONY

Jiraiya is the man behind the lovely chubby dudes, called gachimuchi in Japanese (“muscular-chubby”) . He’s currently one of the most famous gay manga illustrators with Gengoroh Tagame. Born in 1967, Jiraiya started his actual career in his early 30’s after working for several years as a graphic designer. Growing up in rural Japan in the 70s, sumo...
NOW: ASSK SS15

NOW: ASSK SS15

Social comment is a crucial part of Paris based label ASSK. After exploring Doomsday last winter, the new collection is focusing on video surveillance, internet, glitches and all sort of visual collaterals. Agatha and Sarah, the duo behind ASSK, used this time patchworks of pictures or stretched pixels to create visual landscapes and question our places between reality...
NOW: TOMORROWLAND SS15

NOW: TOMORROWLAND SS15

The new Tomorrowland collection is an ode to effortless chic. Taking cues from classic sportswear with an emphasis on tennis, the new season introduces relaxed silhouettes mixing lightweight fabrics, unconstructed jackets and slightly oversized pants. Thanks to its skilled artisans and access to exclusive mills, the Japanese has developed innovative fabrics like a this rayon poplin for a more comfortable fit....
NOW : JUNYA WATANABE SS15

NOW : JUNYA WATANABE SS15

After a few seasons marked by a strong workwear influence – British styles (punk, Saville Row, gentlemen farmer) or Eastern Europe, Junya Watanabe went back to his origins with a SS15 entirely dedicated to Japan and indigo. His classic patchworks are updated with traditional floral or geometric patterns. The bold tartans seen before are replaced by elegant pinstripes or...
INTERVIEW: RICHARD HAINES

INTERVIEW: RICHARD HAINES

Talking with Richard Haines is always special. Rare are the people with such great energy and generosity. I remember seeing him during my first street style season chatting with everybody, always with this great smile and curiosity. It strangely took me two years to really engage with him and discover how wonderful he is. While fashion illustration...
NOW: TRADEMARK SS15 COLLECTION

NOW: TRADEMARK SS15 COLLECTION

With its minimalist details and contemporary silhouette, newly launched Trademark fits between Opening Ceremony and Acne studios. You will find the same conceptual inspirations and playful takes but unlike them, a desire to modernize American sportswear. Technical details such as snaps, nylon color blend and waterproof fabrics have replaced traditional zippers, cotton blends and other traditional details. A vibrant color palette, inspired by...
NOW: SIVIGLIA

NOW: SIVIGLIA

I discovered Siviglia during the last Pitti Uomo in January. Founded in 2006 in Italy, Siviglia became quickly known for the impeccable fit and construction of their pants. The brand fully embraces its Italian heritage with a contemporary twist using playful patterns and a vibrant color palette. My selects from the SS15 SS15 color palette My selects...
REVIEW: FW15

REVIEW: FW15

All good things must come to an end. New Fashion Week closed almost two months of men’s shows spread out between Europe and the US, from early January to mid February. Busy shooting most of the time, I only get to see everything afterward. I actually appreciate this distance, giving me more time to digest...
NOW: RAF SIMONS SS15 CAMPAIGN

NOW: RAF SIMONS SS15 CAMPAIGN

Just on time for Paris Fashion Week, Raf Simons unveiled his new campaign with longtime creative partners photographer Willy Vanderperre and stylist Olivier Rizzo. Model Luca Lemaire was portrayed wearing some of the most iconic patchwork pieces from the new collection indoors and outdoors. The team reprised Raf’s favorite aesthetic, a delicate mix between intimate and minimalist composition.
SS15: TREND REPORT - PART 3

SS15: TREND REPORT – PART 3

Last part of my SS15 report with two new trends. Embroideries It’s quite unusual to see embroideries in men’s collections so I found interesting to highlight it even though, I must confess, it’s not a major trend. With that being said, I was really seduced by Maison Martin Margiela’s conceptual treatment (embroideries and sheer gauze),...
SS15: TREND REPORT – PART 2

SS15: TREND REPORT – PART 2

Second part of my SS15 trend report with two new themes, denim and bondage. Unless you are Hood By Air or Calvin Klein, denim is usually a major persona non grata mostly because considered as too casual. So it’s particularly pleasant to see a few designers reinventing jeans and denim jackets like the impeccable Kenzo’s suit, Prada’s 70’s look and Yojhi...