NOW-TRENDS
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - NEW COLORS

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – NEW COLORS

Each season has a its new color palette. Green had a major comeback the last season with multiple variations (forest green, emerald, pistachio,…). This time, two new ones emerged from the runway, lavender blue and ochre. While they are not the most outrageous ones, they definitely have something refreshing and quite unexpected if you consider the different...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - ELONGATED

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – ELONGATED

According to trend forecasters, skinny silhouettes are over. Men don’t want to wear tight pants like they have been doing the last 4 years. It seems that designers also got the memo and figured out some tricks to get us still look skinnier while not being too literal. One of them has been stretching the silhouette with elongated...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - DISRUPTIVE

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – DISRUPTIVE

Fashion loves order. It’s the essence of its business. Chaos just don’t sell and even in their more desperate attempts, designers are always struggling to be completely disruptive. On the other hand, fashion shows always offer an opportunity to translate visually the original intention. Some designers are more gifted than others, offering a more comprehensive...
NOW: SS16 TRENDS - QUEER

NOW: SS16 TRENDS – QUEER

Defining a season can be some kind of pick and choose contest where you try to agglomerate looks and pray to get new trends. But Spring Summer 16 offers an exceptional amount of major trends, almost all divided into niches. Forget the recent seasons, all compulsively obsessed with streetwear and all sorts of Goths, and get ready to celebrate a new...
NOW: BALENCIAGA FW15

NOW: BALENCIAGA FW15

It surely comes off  now as an old news, especially with Alexander Wang out but I always loved his work for the Paris-based house. While the press has quite often questioned his understanding of the Balenciaga’s history, I found Wang’s vision for the men’s collections successful, intrinsically intertwining the slick DNA of the founder with his own modern...
NOW: ACNE STUDIOS FW15

NOW: ACNE STUDIOS FW15

People watching in the subway is truly unique. It’s slightly awkward due to the forced promiscuity but quite enjoyable for the exact same reason. My morning commute is usually a pain until this guy walked in. He had some earrings on, eye shadow, faded purple lipstick and matching nail polish and faded blue hair. Mesmerized by this combination, I took...
PREVIEW: TY-LR SS16

PREVIEW: TY-LR SS16

I usually don’t feature collections so far in advance but I recently discovered TY-LR during the recent press previews. Created in 2015 and based in Australia, this first collection solves a common problem that we frequently encounter: find a sharp and versatile contemporary wardrobe. Developed between Europe and Australia, TY-LR’s fortes are definitely the fabric and construction, both inspired...
NOW: MONCLER GAMME A FW15

NOW: MONCLER GAMME A FW15

Moncler is truly a unique brand in the fashion industry for having first built an entire empire based its outerwear before merging synergies with guest designers like Thom Browne, Giambattista Valli and now Parisian designer AMI’s Alexandre Mattiussi for Moncler Gamme A. Renowned for his effortless silhouettes, Mattiussi designed a contemporary and fresh capsule collection while staying true to Moncler. The...
NOW: CHAPTER FW15

NOW: CHAPTER FW15

Chapter time travels this season exploring two unparalleled worlds, the first days of the space odyssey and the cyberpunk movement in the 1980s. The collection takes cues from when uncertain times were predominant but also the promises of a different future and the discovery of a new humankind nourished new hopes. As a result, this season is aesthetically more challenging mixing monastic wool coats with...
NOW: OFFICINE GENERALE FW15

NOW: OFFICINE GENERALE FW15

Doubt is almost a second nature for us French. Writer Andre Gide actually wrote: “Believe those who seek the truth, doubt those who find it; doubt all, but do not doubt yourself”*. While it might be symptomatic of any creative process, it describes quite well what Officine Generale’s founder Pierre Maheo went through when designing his...
NOW: OC FW15 BY SPIKE JONZE

NOW: OC FW15 BY SPIKE JONZE

Spike Jones, before becoming an acclaimed director, was one of the most prolific 90’s photographers and music video directors collaborating with the Beastie Boys, Bjork, REM and Sonic Youth. Like most photographers, he needed a friend, here Humberto Leon, to resurrect some of these magical moments. After days in Los Angeles digging into Jones’s archives, Leon came up...
NOW: ADIDAS x PALACE FW15

NOW: ADIDAS x PALACE FW15

I always have to justify to my friends why I love so much this collaboration. While I’m clearly not a skater (and can’t even fake it), I find really cool that such a young label manage to resurrect Adidas’s aura with some of its most iconic vintage styles. Since launching now a year ago, PALACE founder Lev...
NOW: TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION FW15

NOW: TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION FW15

Looking at the new Tourne de Transmission collection, I couldn’t help but think of Martin Rueber‘s quote “All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware”. Now in its 6th season, Tourne de Transmission embarked in an introspective journey travelling to the northeast of the Himalayas, far from its chaotic origins. The cultural clash revealed a new man,...
NOW: WOOD WOOD FW15

NOW: WOOD WOOD FW15

After almost two strong years, the logomania is finally winding down or at least taking a more subtle approach. The last two Comme des garcons collaborations (Supreme and Stussy) and of course the rise of Parisian’s collective Vetement, just to talk about the most recent examples, are here to prove it: no more logo in your...
NOW: PALM ANGELS

NOW: PALM ANGELS

First was a book published last year. Called Palm Angels, it featured Francesco Ragazzi’s photographs of Venice Beach’s skaters. For almost 3 years, Ragazzi, also know as Moncler’s art director, started documenting those blondes angels skating under the palm trees, their long silhouettes, their effortless fashion, and the LA skateboard scene. It’s only after publishing his book that...
NOW: PLAC FW15

NOW: PLAC FW15

Founded in 2009 by London College of Fashion alum Jaewan Park, South-Korean brand Plac has steadily built up its own momentum. Known at its beginning as a premium denim brand, Plac has managed to create a contemporary wardrobe balancing sharp silhouettes and more urban pieces. The new collection epitomizes well Plac’s essence with a perfect mix of tailored...
NOW: TOMORROWLAND FW15

NOW: TOMORROWLAND FW15

Tomorrowland is not your traditional Japanese brand. You won’t find here the usual minimalist aesthetic so often praised, but rather a smart and playful blend of British and Italian heritages (mostly for the pattern and fabric choices) combined with sharp silhouettes. This new season sees a major focus on patchworks, color contrasts and loose versus strict lines...
NOW: CITIZENS OF HUMANITY FW15

NOW: CITIZENS OF HUMANITY FW15

Citizens of Humanity is what Goyard is to the luxury world, a connoisseur-only brand creating the best product in its category. Since its creation in 2003 by Jerome Dahan, Citizens of Humanity’s mission is designing the unique pair of jeans with the perfect wash, texture and more than anything else, the perfect fit, all using premium fabrics. The LA-based brand...
FW15 TRENDS: GREEN

FW15 TRENDS: GREEN

Mineral colors are a huge trend this season. While earthy tones are runway’s regulars, green has always had a conflicted relationship with designers…. until Burberry designed this gorgeous collection a few winters ago using a subtle mix of olive-green and darker shades. For this season, we have a delicate color palette, mostly taking cues from...
NOW: SS16 – PREVIEW 2

NOW: SS16 – PREVIEW 2

Second and last part of my short preview with four designers all radically different and from different cities. First, the NYC based Patrik Ervell with for this season introduce a quite unusual oversized silhouette. Then the CFDA nominee Gypsy Sport still exploring his genderless theme with this time a quite powerful contrast between an urban...
NOW: SS16 - PREVIEW 1

NOW: SS16 – PREVIEW 1

Haud Studio, Opening Ceremony, Linder, Tourne de Transmission, four different brands but one recurrent theme, youth. Symbol of rebellion, innocent and independence, youth crystallizes these uncanny feelings and desires in their purest shapes. First, Paris based brand Haud Studio. Designed as a gender neutral line, the collection plays with volumes and lengths exploring their own limitations. For this new...