FW17: DEMNA (AKA MARGIELA SYNDROME)
They say copy is the best form of flattery. In this specific, and knowing how the designs of Martin Margiela have influenced Demna Gvasalia, it almost feels like a retrospective. Bold shoulders, oversized, disrupted designs, industrial textures and fabric manipulation, to name just a few, were some of Margiela’s signature, revisited by Vetement’s designer and now reinjected on the runway. As you will see, the results are aesthetically successful and trendy while offering great reinterpretations keeping the original rawness and conceptual approach (Y/PROJECT and Martine Rose). It’s a bit more surprising to see Dries Van Noten revisiting that heritage as it seems less organic. I’m still uncertain about John Lawrence Sullivan, known for his quirky designs, but not necessarily for almost ripping off Margiela.