I didn’t see that trend coming until looked at Moncler’s FW17 collection. I had a good laugh no because of the incongruity of the looks or Thom Browne’s genius idea, but more about how he turned those men into real sexual objects, thing he has done often in the past, relentlessly taking cues from traditional japanese costumes for example. It made me revisit other collections, searching for other signs. While the other collections weren’t as sexually or socially charged, some excellent ideas were there between Boris Bidjan Saberi’s disrupted oversized sweater with this mesh tread concept or this buckle (OAMC) and tie obsession (N21,  Comme des garcons,…) flirting from sportswear equipment inspiration or kimono vest.