Menswear, in my opinion, has doubled over and lost sight of itself. It’s currently obsessed with tradition. Obsessed with rules. It is steeped in a heteronormative view of what is “manly.” It’s like Hemingway got resurrected in Tumblr form. Clothes used to be used to denote class, position, status. But, due to some globalization and gentrification and ossification and funkification, the form of menswear has been decoupled from the function. Now kid in Brooklyn can obsess over a Neapolitan-cut suit. A Parisian business man can be into vintage Nikes. A Chinese entrepreneur can scoop up American-made selvedge jeans. It’s scary and confusing, but also incredibly liberating.
Style has always been a conversation, a negotiation between past, present future; or a discourse between society and individual. So, that in mind, let’s talk.
Jacket: Thom Browne – Shirt: Bonobos – Tie: Everlane – Pocket Square: Thrift store – Jeans: Levi’s – Shoes: Alden
“This is my ‘An American in Rome’ look. I would probably only wear this in Milan or, I suppose, in Clinton Hill (hey, Brooklyn is cosmopolitan right?). I’m just kidding I would never visit Milan. Do I look like I own a Vespa? Am I a dangerous-but-lovable cat burglar coming out of retirement to do one last job to save his little brother from a Russian oligarch?
Hat: Pendleton – Shirt: vintage French army – Jeans: Pointer – Boots: Grenson
“Workwear is the other Big Brother of menswear, along with military wear. I blame this whole thing on ‘There Will Be Blood.’ and Mike Rowe. This workwear craze is Marx’s concept of ‘alienation from the means of production’ come to life. We all sort of wish we were oil roughnecks, or miners, or organic farmers, but we have no idea how to be one except to put on big jeans and get photographed.”
Jacket: Opening Ceremony X Pendleton – Shirt and pants: Thom Browne – Tie: J.Crew – Shoes: Alden
“In a summer NYC, it’s tough to resist the urge when the temperature gets all ‘Do the Right Thing’ to just wear some jorts and a horrible tank top. There’s been a big push for men to wear suiting and jackets in the summer, but for most purposes, that’s impractical. This is probably as polished as I can get while still losing 20% of my body weight in sweat per hour.”
Hat: Borsalino – Jacket: Levi’s – Coveralls: vintage US army – Shirt and tie: Benjamin Bixby – Shoes: G.H. Bass & Company X Opening Ceremony
“Military wear has always influenced men’s fashion. Khakis. Peacoats. Bomber jackets. I think, especially in America, with our obsession with controlled, paraded violence, it’s inevitable that more and more military garb find itself in the male style lexicon. I call this look the “mission accomplished.” Where does political commentary end, and the theme song for ‘Danger Zone’ begin?”