NOW: MICHIKO KOSHINO
You briefly have to look back and imagine what was fashion in early 80s in Paris to fully understand Michiko Koshino. Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake but also Kenzo Takada, Kansai Yamamoto and slightly later Hiroshi Fujiwara were the heroes of the Japanese Avant-Garde. Silhouettes, colors, textures, pattern making, garment functionalities and even social conventions were all redefined. Black and new shapes were all of sudden important parts of this original visual discourse. Tailoring, elegance, colors and social conventions were overshadowed by a young generation willing to establish new rules.
Michiko Koshino’s eponymous label, while more confidential and only based in the London, was also part of that movement. Ever since it was launched in 1975, Michiko has been the favorite of nightclubs and artists (David Bowie and Moby) thanks to her futuristic silhouettes. She’s renowned for her use industrial materials, especially plastic for her inflatable jacket, laser cut precision and street meets high fashion designs.
These upcoming seasons, spring summer and especially fall winter 17, see revitalized collections flirting with Walter Van Beirendonck for the quirky silhouette and Y-3 for the sport infused fits. Contrast paneling, camo, fluorescent accents, black and white patterns along with bolero inspired inflatable jackets, cropped flair pants and layering give an aggressive urban aesthetic epitomizing perfectly East London creative energy.